in-line fuses for finders...

Discuss anything electronic or electrical, lights, sounders, GPS etc..
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Tara Yakka
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Are they required?
Have just got my yak back from Canoe and Kayak with the finder fitted (Thanks Pete). But I want to know if I should have a fuse before I test it tomorrow.
Cheers all
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Hairy Little Dwarf
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It's good practice to have one fitted, but I have never heard of one going into meltdown.

...That's not to say yours won't be the first though.

Short answer? Yes
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Hainesy
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Agree with HLD.....$7.95 for a waterproof fuse holder (Burnsco)....$1 for a fuse vs $$$$$$$$ for a new FF !!
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skarramooch
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And if you get a short across your battery it could melt through the bottom of your yak resulting in very wet feet.

Having said that I had mine unfused for several months with the battery just banging about in the bottom of the yak which always has a little water in it, and never had it short out. It did however break the terminals on the battery and cause corrosion all though the electrics :(

Your FF warranty might demand you have a fuse.
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Hairy Little Dwarf
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Interesting though, that the low end Lowrance/Eagle FFs come with a fuse (or used to), my Elite didn't.
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Tara Yakka
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neither did my Humminbird, which is why I bought it up HLD. Thought that some might not require a fuse. Will slip one in to be safe, dont wont to have to wait to win another finder, or have a dirty big hole in the bottom of my yak. Thanks all.
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woodstock
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Some brands come with fuse holders and fuse in box.Best to put one in better fuse blows than fish finder.
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Lister
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Put a fuse in.

And from past experience; :$ don't run your battery flat, they don't like it. Get home and recharge every time.
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Limitless
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It's a small cost to put a fuse in, and all the warranties I've read require a fuse.

Apparently it's pretty easy to tell (because of the high current output possible from the batteries we use) if there wasn't a fuse fitted when an instrument fails. It might have been the manufacturer's fault originally, but without a fuse your warranty in void... ;(

:lol: Most units aren't sold with fuse holders / fuses because they assume no one would be crazy enough to spend that sort of money and install them in a "boat" without a fuse panel - they obviously haven't met enough sane kayakers :lol:
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Um. If something is sufficiently wrong with the FF that it blows the fuse, then the FF is ALREADY toast. The only thing the fuse can do is prevent a fire - it will not protect the FF.
When a fuse blows its because something else is catastrophically wrong.
Silicon dies way faster than fuses.
And just for educational purposes:
Fuse ratings are based on time to rupture under various fault conditions. A fuse can take up to two minutes to blow at twice its rated current. At ten times rated current it may take up to two seconds. So it takes 10A to blow a 1A fuse in 2 seconds or less.
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Hairy Little Dwarf
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I find these are very good.
The FF sacrifices itself to protect the fuse :lol:
fuzz.jpg
fuzz.jpg (44.72 KiB) Viewed 614 times
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To be honest, I also don't really see the need for a fuse in our application (supplying off an isolated battery is totally different to a boats circuit where there's potential for power spikes etc. from a variety of sources)... BUT... if the warranty requires it, then for the sake of a few bucks why give the manufacturers / distributors an out by not using one.
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MikeAqua
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Fish finder power leads are really thin and fuse holder leads are really thick.

Pain in the back side to make a decent water proof join between the two.
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Rusty
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being a builder i just use a 4inch nail :lol:
Everyone is a genius.

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it will live its whole life believing it is stupid.
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Hudunnit
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To achieve that waterproof joint you speak of, my suggestion would be this as I have done it before for other marine applications.

Heatshrink is your best friend.

Use two different sizes. First one just big enough to slide over the soldered joint between the two wires and extend about 20mm either side of bare wire.

Before shrinking on I inject from the end some silicone grease into the joint area, not too much as to push out past the insulation.

Heat from the ends inwards trapping the grease in the centre. It may creep out once constricted so stop when it does.

Second layer slightly larger so it goes over the first layer. No grease just extend ends out past first layer by about 10mm. More of a backstop to provide protection than anything else but makes it harder to damage.

Up to you but it works for me.
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nige
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Rusty wrote:being a builder i just use a 4inch nail :lol:
What do you recommend a bright, a galvanized or maybe a 4'' stainless
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Limitless
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Jolt heads provide more power than flat heads. |( :lol:
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MikeAqua
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I found the heatshrink size that would fit over the fuse holder leads, wouldn't shrink enough to seal the FF leads.

In between cursing Lowrance for skimping on the wire gauge I had to shrink some skinny heatshrink onto the FF leads to thicken it up, before proceeding as Hudunnit explains.
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Limitless
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Most of the fish finder units use smaller gauge wire than that typically found on fuse holders. This is one of the reasons I terminate the wires with nickel silver QC connectors. I do the same with the fuse holder leads. Sealing the terminations is easy, and replacing the fuse holder (most common item to fail) is even simpler - plug on, plug off.
ZMS8574 LIMA INDIA MIKE INDIA TANGO LIMA ECHO SIERRA SIERRA - practised your phonetic alphabet yet?
The current fleet: Profish Reload, Profish GT, Profish 400 Lite
The historic fleet: too many to mention... the adventures since 1974 have seen lots of kayak carnage
Find me at Viking Kayaks in Matamata... you gotta love our sport!
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Tara Yakka
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Are there any threads you guys know of off hand to show us how to? or a photo or two of how you've done it would be great. I have my battery in a click clack container so the fuse would be inside that for water proofing. I was suggested a 1a fuse, are you suggesting more TwoSpoons?
Thanks all
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