Tackle Pod battery box

Here's where you get your hands dirty, so to speak. So if you like to build or customize things for the yak, this is your forum
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matasb
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:02 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Profish Reload

Sat Oct 17, 2020 5:39 pm

After needing to replace the power cable to my FF (thanks to pesky salt corrosion) and sick of using ziplock bags to protect my battery, I decided to build a water resistant battery box. The idea was to place the battery into a box prior to leaving the house and needing to open it again until back home. Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos during the build to show how I spliced all the wires etc.

The list of parts I used is below and a build report beneath that:
-Sistema container (Warehouse)
-cable gland (Burnsco)
-battery terminals (already had some)
-1mm dual core tinned wire (Burnsco)
-heatshrink tubing (Burnsco)
-solder splice joiners (Burnsco)
-waterproof connector (Burnsco)
-inline fuse with spare (Burnsco)
-old packing foam

It didn't go exactly to plan with Kmart no longer stocking the waterproof container that would fit my battery and still fit in the tackle pod battery well so finding one that fit became a bit if a mission :| . Eventually settled on the Sistema one pictured- got it at the Warehouse and it's rubber seal seems to be better than the old containers that had the removable rubber ring. This container will definitely ward off splashes which was the minimum requirement.

The next step was to splice the FF power cable to one half of the waterproof connector. These can be quite fiddly so the best thing to do is lay the parts out before starting and making sure the terminals click into position in the housing. Prior to doing this, I trimmed the power cable down to length since I didn't need all 6ft of it inside the tackle pod. The spare was used later.

Then I drilled a hole in the container for the gland and installed that. The FF power cable spare end was then connected (using solder splice joins) to the inline fuse and then the dual core wire (sheath was stripped and removed). The dual core wires were then crimped onto the battery terminals.

Once this was complete, the end of the spare FF power cable was run up through the gland, and connected to the other half of the waterproof connector - NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT THE CABLES CORRECTLY OR YOU RISK DAMAGING YOUR FF. This was the only way to ensure the gland remained waterproof as the water proof connector and the inline fuse would fit through the hole.

The old foam was used to make sure the battery doesn't rattle around in the box. Eventually, I will figure out a better permanent solution. Maybe some expanding foam if there's no risk for the battery overheating.... :?:

Once this was all done, the power cable was tested with a multimeter to make sure everything was connected and would provide power. Once this was done, I installed some 3M cable clips inside the tackle pod to help keep things tidy.

Let me know if y'all have any questions on how I did things or want better photos, happy to share my struggles or tips :)
Attachments
20201017_170733.jpg
Waterproof connector
20201017_170720.jpg
Tidy cables

matasb
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:02 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Profish Reload

Sat Oct 17, 2020 5:41 pm

Some photos didn't attach and I'm struggling to understand why. :swear: ..if anybody has any tips they'd be appreciated :D

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