EPG epoxy resin and glue

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Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:24 pm

Has anyone used the epoxy marine resin from EPG and epoxy glue?
They only sell through trade me and seem quite cheap, would be good to know if anyone has any experience with it.
Epoxyglue.com



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Winch
Posts: 2078
Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 8:10 pm
Kayak Make: Kaskazi
Kayak Model: Dorado 2
VHF Call Sign: help
Location: Earth

Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:17 am

I have not used it but it looks like a ok nz company that's been going for 14 years, comes down to what you need it for and if they have the right epoxy for that job???

Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:03 am

Looking at a stitch & glue sea kayak. So sealing the plywood, wetting out glass cloth over plywood and using thickened epoxy to fillet the joints.
I'm also tempted to use their epoxy glue for the filleting to save messing around with mixing my own.
The products seem very cheap compared to its competitors.


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Winch
Posts: 2078
Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 8:10 pm
Kayak Make: Kaskazi
Kayak Model: Dorado 2
VHF Call Sign: help
Location: Earth

Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:20 pm

If your going to put that much work into something I would get a brand you know and trust. International and West System are the leading off the self brands. I use West System the most as its easier for me to get and they have just brought out a hardener for doing clean finishers with UV additives (wont go yellow)

Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Sun Apr 17, 2016 1:50 pm

Thanks Winch.
West system 205/207 was my original choice, the price of the EPG almost swayed me though!
Where do get all your glass cloth etc?
I've been looking at the http://www.fiberglassshop.co.nz" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Any where else I should look at?
Cheers


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Winch
Posts: 2078
Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 8:10 pm
Kayak Make: Kaskazi
Kayak Model: Dorado 2
VHF Call Sign: help
Location: Earth

Sun Apr 17, 2016 4:00 pm

Yes Terry at the Fiberglass shop is good I use them for small orders :y: and this is a good place to get your Gaboon ply, they are in Whanganui

http://www.summitply.co.nz/content/1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:31 pm

Thanks, Good to know the local suppliers. I managed to find some 4mm gaboon at a local builders reclamation. He brought it in for me at no extra cost and only charged $28 a sheet!! Looks good enough with a b face finish.
Ideally I need 3mm for the tortured ply deck but I'll see how I get along. It'll be a while before I get to that stage...
Cheers.


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Mac50L
Posts: 423
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 9:27 am
Kayak Make: SeaLand
Kayak Model: Mac50L
Location: Banks Peninsula
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Sun Apr 17, 2016 8:22 pm

I was told there are about 4 epoxy produces in the world and the rest repackage it. I use Norski, never had problems with it. Early WEST used to go gritty, like sugary, and I'd beat up the resin with a paint stirrer before use. I believe they have got round that problem. It still worked OK.

A mention of glass and S&G. On my kayaks I only use glass on the keel and chine joins, sometimes on the deck/side join. The hulls are epoxied inside and out but no glass. I will admit my kayaks have only lasted 33 years so far as that's the age of my oldest one. My partner's one is getting on for 15 years and still as good as new.

The cloth for keel and chine - I cut the cloth on the diagonal so all the threads are doing some work and there are no edge ones to unravel.

If you get epoxy on your skin or want to clean things, use vinegar, cheaper than acetone and you can drink it but don't drink acetone.

Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Sun Apr 17, 2016 9:52 pm

MAC50
I'll be building the CNC Shrike kayak, the designer is s great advocate of lightweight and recommends the use of glass for the keel, chines and cockpit comming. I was considering an extra layer of glass internally for resistance to sand abrasion.
If creating your own tape cutting diagonally, do you then have areas where you overlap joins?
What weight cloth do you use?
Also what is rock resistance like? (The main reason I have no issue in using 4mm for the hull rather than the recommended 3mm)

Cheers
James


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Mac50L
Posts: 423
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Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:10 pm

Hurley Burley wrote:MAC50
I'll be building the CNC Shrike kayak,
I'd be interested to hear how it goes as I've not used my set of plans (yet), the ones the designer himself gave me, as well as lunch.
the designer is a great advocate of lightweight and recommends the use of glass for the keel, chines and cockpit coaming.
We had a great discussion and basically agreed in the same approach to design and construction.
I was considering an extra layer of glass internally for resistance to sand abrasion.
I'd not bother to.
If creating your own tape cutting diagonally, do you then have areas where you overlap joins?
Marginally overlapped or butt joined.
What weight cloth do you use?
Good question, the next question? OK possibly 6 oz but that's a guess.
Also what is rock resistance like? (The main reason I have no issue in using 4mm for the hull rather than the recommended 3mm)
Rock resistance? I always hit rocks. Bounced off a couple this morning while out and that's my 3 mm tortured ply kayak. My other (current) one is also 3 mm hard chine. If I'd been paddling that one might possibly have hit the rocks faster. I should apply a bit of paint, especially along the keel as both are getting a bit worn there.

Certainly at the ends we epoxy a ~40-50 mm wide strip of carborundum impregnated epoxy along the keel. Norski has it and it is a bit like toffee to apply. Use a well watered finger (in a rubber glove) and "meld" it along the keel. It makes it better for dragging the kayak up a gravel beach, tends to leave grooves in the rocks.

paddlesnap
Posts: 3724
Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 8:33 pm
Kayak Make: QK/Ron Augustin
Kayak Model: Torres/Seabear/ Albatross etc.
Location: Papakura

Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:12 am

[quote="Hurley Burley"]Has anyone used the epoxy marine resin from EPG and epoxy glue?
They only sell through trade me and seem quite cheap, would be good to know if anyone has any experience with it.
Epoxyglue.com



Yup I've used heaps of their Timber Sealer and preservative on house renovations and repairs and it's brilliant stuff . highly recommend it :y:

Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:42 am

paddlesnap wrote: Yup I've used heaps of their Timber Sealer and preservative on house renovations and repairs and it's brilliant stuff . highly recommend it :y:
Thanks paddlesnap, will probably go with west systems as I can source all my fiberglass stuff from the same shop, plus anything that reduces the chance of amine blush is a bonus.

Hurley Burley
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:53 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Espri Angler
Location: Taranaki

Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:52 am

Good info there MAC50, thanks.
It's going to be a long term project as I'm short of time with young children. I'll be starting this winter, hopefully finished by summer but I'm not rushing it.
I've just finished my first Greenland paddle using the guide I believe you wrote, so far loving it, but took me a whole day of paddling to get the feel for it though. After a week paddling with nothing else round the cavalli islands I struggle to go back to a euro paddle.
Already planning mk2 & 3 varying the length and width. Cedar is not easy to come by in Taranaki though..


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