Trying to understand the unique advantages of yak fishing.

Discuss fishing tackle, methods, and kayak fishing accessories here.
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Posts: 247
Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:42 pm
Kayak Make: Phoenix
Kayak Model: Hornet
Location: Mangawhai

Sun Feb 04, 2018 11:38 am

Just trying to get my head around this in respect of rod and reel selections.

What's the point of >7kgs drag if the yak gets towed with as little as 3kgs drag? Even Kahawai can significantly relocate my yak. I guess if anchored rather than drifting, then with larger drag settings we've got a shot of halting a fish before it smokes us on the rocks. Is that the only benefit of the larger drag capacities? That and I guess the drag not working so close to design limits on a good scrap - but then I refer back to my point about getting towed around.

What sort of max drag do you consider we are able to put on a fish (without getting flipped out of the yak) if drifting without drogue, drifting with drogue, anchored?

What's the point of large spool capacities if the yak gets dragged and we can simply reel our yak over the fish rather than try to reel our fish to the boat? Doesn't that lessen the spool capacities we need? We can get up closer to target areas without spooking fish so it's not like we need to cast 100m from the rocks. If fishing in, say, >100m of water how much line can a big critter take before you can start getting some back by pulling the yak to the fish?

These sorts of questions are because I'm looking at 4000-sized spinning reels as much nicer to deal with on a yak (and cheaper) than some of the bigger capacity reels. It got me thinking about what else is specific to yak fishing that dictates the rod/reel selections.
Last edited by kingiFiddler on Tue Feb 06, 2018 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Location: Northland

Tue Feb 06, 2018 8:22 am

I can’t answer your questions, but 2500 size reels and 10/15lb braid catch most of my fish including 20lb snapper and legal kings in open water. It’s not a pissing contest, I just prefer lighter gear if I’m holding it all day.

Posts: 247
Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:42 pm
Kayak Make: Phoenix
Kayak Model: Hornet
Location: Mangawhai

Tue Feb 06, 2018 9:06 am

Thanks. It's probably nuth'n new to most people on this forum but still somewhat of a revelation for me as I work my way through the transition from boats to kayak. I was in 40+m a few weeks ago and seeing fresh new colours of braid coming off the 4000 reel that haven't seen daylight since it went on. It got me thinking what would happen if I hooked something large (apart from the shark that fortunately shredded the leader) and if I'd get spooled on the first serious run before I could get my act together.

Also, there are a few spots not too far away in close and shallow I am certain hold some good fish but unless I'm anchored and with enough drag, I can't think of how I'd stop them before they hit structure.

Also, sharks are a menace and I've been feeding them too often already this Summer. Smaller the line, smaller the drag, longer the fight and greater the invitation to the taxman. I don't want to go back to massive drags on broom sticks and practically skull dragging fish to the boat, but I've been taxed more in the first year on a kayak than probably 5 or more from a boat.

On a side note, I got tailed for about 100m yesterday by a small shark. Wasn't fishing, just playing in the surf and this shark turned to head straight towards me. I could see it was small so turned and paddled directly at it to scare it away but that didn't work. plan B was a smooth steady retreat and this shark kept coming up and drifting back. Even in just 1m of water. Got to shore looked around and it was finally gone.
Last edited by kingiFiddler on Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Hairy Little Dwarf
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Kayak Model: Hornet

Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:37 am

Sharks tail yaks more often than people think, but usually just interested in the water disturbance I think. They often just glide away after a minute or so.
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Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:12 am
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Tue Feb 06, 2018 12:02 pm

Ive dropped back to small reel/rod combos. rarely fish deeper than 15m so dont need capacity, and as you point out the yak races off once the drags tightened keeping you within 50m generally. Would be handy though to have more stopping power for kingis, if they were diving for structure directly under the yak when jigging. Due to the lack of structure where i chase kings, they just barrel through the weed beds n its a case of hang on n turn them when you can.
Sharks? Best ignore them.... or turn on the gopro... :lol:

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Kayak Model: Profish 400
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Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:24 am

TLDR: More drag = more work for the fish to do before it can pull string. But don't go overboard!

Fundamentally we want to make the fish work hard while losing as little line as possible. In summary more drag makes the fish work harder to pull string. We do this with the springiness of the rod and the load of moving the yak through the water.

In an ideal set up, before moving the yak, or pulling line the fish has to bend the rod somewhat. This saps energy each time the fish loads up the rod. If you have too little drag, the fish can pull line without bending the rod.

Now think about yak speed. It takes exponentially more energy to move the yak faster. This is because friction increases exponentially with speed. The faster the yak goes the more friction with water it generates, that friction takes work by the fish to overcome.

At some point it will be easier to pull string than move the kayak faster, so line will start peeling out. The harder it is too peel line, the faster the fish can tow the kayak and the more work it is doing. This applies right up to the yak's hull speed.

Of course too much pull can make you un-stable (depending on yak and conditions) and this has to be managed too.
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