Retractable transducer in Viking tackle pod.

Here's where you get your hands dirty, so to speak. So if you like to build or customize things for the yak, this is your forum
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Rob
Posts: 369
Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:05 am
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Aqua 2/Profish Reload
VHF Call Sign: ZMU6741
Location: Masterton

Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:41 pm

Hi Guy's.

I have often wondered if I've been losing some definition/range in my Humminbird 798 side-scan function, due to the transducer sitting above the keel of my kayak and trying to pass the signal through the air gap at the bottom of the tackle pod.

I decided to make a shaft that I can push down to get the transducer to a maximum of 100mm below the keel, after I leave the shore.

I could also select one side of the scan and do a sweep of the area if I want. Once lowered the transducer can rotate180 degrees (as long as I rotate it back the right way) probably going over-board but I might have a play with that to see if I can see the fishy's or not.



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AndrewRawlingson
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Location: Northland

Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:59 pm

Down periscope! Very good! :clap:
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MikeAqua
Posts: 3297
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:23 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Profish 400
VHF Call Sign: ZMT-7387
Location: Nelson

Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:48 am

Nice work. I'd love to see some more photos showing the construction details if you have them.
"No good story begins with a salad"
ZMT-7387
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Cowboy
Posts: 102
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:59 pm
Kayak Make: Cobra Marauder
Kayak Model: Viking 440
VHF Call Sign: Cowboy
Location: Hawera

Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:23 pm

Very nice!

Rob
Posts: 369
Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:05 am
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Aqua 2/Profish Reload
VHF Call Sign: ZMU6741
Location: Masterton

Wed Aug 30, 2017 4:16 pm

Ok... I'll point out that I haven't got to trail this yet. (All care, no responsibility!)

Items that I used for this (Mitre 10 Mega or Bunnings or your plumber mate)

1 x 1 metre length of 32mm pipe $ 11.55 (I only needed 365mm)
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1 x 32mm Female adaptor $ 5.67
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1 x 32mm Male adaptor $ 6.78
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1 x 32mm end cap $ 8.00 (you can use a 32mm coupler, cheaper! $ 4.99)



1 x 20mm coupler $5.46
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Method!

I cut the pipe shaft 365mm long.
The pipe diameter is 32mm (internal)... about 35mm external. It does not fit through the Tackle pod hole without changing it.
I cut 4 slots 160mm up the shaft. That reduced the overall diameter to a size that is a sliding fit, through the cable well, stopping when the slots end, because the pipe diameter increases.

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Just beside one of the slots I made a hole large enough for the transducer plug to fit through... allowing extra space for the plug and cable to bend when passing from inside the pipe to outside.

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The 32mm male and female adaptors need to be reamed out so that the pipe slides through them. I used a mandrel and hole saw but a file/rasp does the job. Cut a hole, centrally located into the tackle pod cable well lid and install the 32mm adaptors onto it.
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I removed the transducer from it's base. I heated the 20mm coupler (I used a heat gun) until it was pliable and pushed it onto the transducer until the coupler had cooled, taking the shape of the transducer. Carefully drill a hole through the coupler, matching it to the bolt hole in the transducer. Bolt the Coupler and the transducer together. The coupler fits inside the 32mm pipe, forcing it back to it's original diameter... the coupler is shortened so that the transducer can be lifted up as high as possible into the tackle pod recess.
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Taking the 32mm end cap, cut the top of it off.
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Place the end cap over the base of the pipe. Just above where the end cap stops, drill a hole, through the slot that will be facing the rear of the kayak, large enough to fit the transducer cable
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Put the pipe through the Tackle pod cable well. Push the transducer cable up, and out, of the hole at the top of the slots.
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Put the end cap over the pipe, push the shortened coupler into the pipe, slide the end cap back down so that the pipe is made to grip the coupler. Rotate the transducer so that it will face front to rear of the kayak correctly and drill a bolt hole through the end cap, pipe and coupler. Adjust the cable length at the transducer and bolt the end cap, pipe and coupler together.
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I have taken the transducer cable through the front of the cable well, sealing that hole with a plug made from self amalgamating tape. I left about 300mm of cable in the well, enough to circle around the well and double back to the point of entry to the tackle pod. All of the extra cable taken into the tackle pod, rolled up and wedged between the front of the tackle pod and the cable well (secured with cable ties.)
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Up Periscope!
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Down periscope!
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The pen marks are for referencing the limits of travel and indicating the transducer's alignment.



Finally... a very rough and ready, backyard, video


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Hainesy
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Kayak Model: Reload
VHF Call Sign: ZMW 2196
Location: West Harbour

Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:13 pm

Brilliant!.... great kiwi innovation!
"The trouble with common sense is that it's not too common !"

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Dreadfish
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Location: Wellington

Thu Aug 31, 2017 9:06 am

rather than split the conduit like you have. as you have stated the plumbing (waste) pipe you have is 32 ID whereas electrical conduit is 32 OD so the electrical duct should slide up inside the plumbing duct. just a thought :D nice setup
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MikeAqua
Posts: 3297
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:23 pm
Kayak Make: Viking
Kayak Model: Profish 400
VHF Call Sign: ZMT-7387
Location: Nelson

Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:03 am

Nice work and thanks for sharing.
"No good story begins with a salad"
ZMT-7387
Viking Profish 400Stolen!! Yellow/Black
'Zespri' Viking Espri
Viking 2+1 Stolen!! Orange/yellow with scratch along one side

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