Sounder Transducer Installation – Quick Guide
General Notes:

Check the sounder and transducer have been supplied complete, according to the parts list supplied with the unit.

Check the transducer supplied will physically fit the transducer socket in the hull of the kayak.

Make sure all power connections made during the installation are soldered, sealed, and protected with heat-shrink. Crimped connections are prone to failure in a wet environment.

Only use nickel/silver connectors (spade battery connections etc.). Aluminium and brass are prone to severe electrolysis.

To seal under cable covers (where cables pass through the hull) use only a good quality RTV Silicone sealant or Holdfast MS ALL adhesive sealant. Selly’s AllClear doesn’t set properly and gives a poor result.

Ensure the installation has a 1 – 3 amp fuse at the battery (some units are not supplied with fuse/fuse holders). This is required for warranty to remain valid.

Ensure the battery is only connected to the power lead just prior to use, and is immediately disconnected at the completion of the trip. This is to stop electrolysis damaging the power cable, especially if the sounder head unit is removed.

Transducer Installation Procedure:

1. Check all parts and tools are present.

2. Check the fit of the transducer in the socket in the hull of the kayak.

3. Modify the transducer mount bracket, allowing it to fit the socket with the transducer attached.

4. Add the M5 thread bar to the mount bracket to allow fastening of the transducer through the scupper.

5. Run the transducer lead up through the scupper and into the cockpit.

6. Install the transducer/mount in place and slide the packer down the thread bar from the cockpit, ensuring the transducer cable fits into the notch in the hard top part.

7. Press the packer tightly in place. This will centralise the mount and hold the transducer while sealing the scupper.

8. Seal above the packer using heavy beads of Holdfast MS ALL adhesive sealant.

9. Fit the top plate, ensuring the transducer cable runs out the gap provided.

10. Fit the washer and M5 Nyloc nut and tighten down till hand tight, ensuring the transducer is level in the socket in the hull of the kayak. There is no need to over-tighten as this will deform the top plate and may pull the transducer out of alignment.

11. Drill a hole in the side of the transducer well just large enough for the connector on the end of the cable to pass through.

12. Repeat in the front wall of the centre well.

13. Tape 1.5m of light wire to the connector on the cable and slide this in through the hole in the sounder well, angling towards the bow. This makes it easy to catch and draw the cable through the 100mm hatch in the centre well.

14. Remove the wire and rout the connector and cable through the hole drilled beside the hatch. Draw enough cable through to reach the planned sounder mount point and to also allow the centre cover to articulate properly.

15. Shorten the excess cable hanging out the 100mm hatch by halving, and then halving again etc, forming a tidy compact bundle that can be cable tied and placed back through the hatch into the kayak.

16. Use more MS ALL to fill the holes around the cables and to fill the inside of the cable covers, before screwing the covers in place.

17. Proceed with installing the sounder on the centre well cover, and the battery tray inside the centre well.

18. Leave for 24 hours for the adhesive sealant to set.

Photos

Photo 1
Parts required for mounting an Eagle or Lowrance transducer into a Viking Profish. Left to right: hardware to fit transducer to mount bracket, modified mount bracket, packer and top plate, M5 Nyloc nut and washer, cable covers and screws, fuse and fuse holder.

Photo 2
To modify the Eagle / Lowrance transducer mount bracket, remove the side flaps, drill 5mm hole in top strap, fit 80mm length of M5 thread-bar.

Photo 3
The mounting parts order starting from the transducer mount in the socket in the kayak hull: modified transducer mount, packer (centralises the mount and assists with fitting and waterproofing), top plate, washer, M5 Nyloc nut.

Photo 4
Correct orientation of the packer when inserted in the top of the scupper. Note the notch in the plastic for the transducer cable.

Photo 5
The transducer cable has been run up through the scupper and the mounted transducer fitted in place, with the packer wedged down from the top of the scupper (note the cable is in the notch to stop damage). The scupper is now made water tight by running a heavy bead of adhesive sealant around the outside of the packet, around the cable, and around the M5 thread-bar in the centre.

Photo 6
With the top plate fitted it’s now a matter of hand tightening the M5 Nyloc nut in place. Don’t over-tighten.

Photo 7
Example of a completed installation with the transducer cable passing through the side of the sounder well.

Photo 8
Example of a completed installation with the transducer cable (and white VHF antenna cable) emerging into the centre well.

the Aluminum strip started out at 50mm wide to match the transom bracket but I decided to trim this down to try an drop the drag a bit:

Now to run the cable, needed to fit a hatch so I could reach the cable gland

As per my last sounder I’m going to mount it on a Scotty so time to make a transition plate out of a chopping board, why can’t you buy black chopping boards?

I’m not happy with this board, got a bit over keen with the router when trimming it, so I’ll make a new one at some point.

Now the question is, with or without the triple, it appeared quite tall at the time with the triple but looking back on it it’s probably no taller than my old Navman was on the triple

One more picture of the transducer…

And yes I know the transducer bracket is upside down, I’ve done this to pull the transducer up just a little, it should still be well in the water, I can always turn it back later if needed.

Now just to get out there and test it… That may have to wait till next week…

Cheers, Mental

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I’ll post this as I go over the next few days.

Ok, step one Mrs Mental gets a box from the courier

Open the box and find another box inside

Open that box and find the goodies inside

Off we go down, to the garage, now this may or may not be the final install, but this the first attempt at least.

Cut a 50mm strip of 3mm ally plate, I cheated and used the table saw

Bent/beat the strip into a form that sort of follows the line of the kayak, here is a test fitting

Checking the depth, I want to get it deep but not too deep, so this will be where I try it first:

Now as I couldn’t get the rudder mount off I have drilled the mount to attach the strip to it instead, the two small holes will not effect the integrity of the bracket so no worries there. Here is a test fitting:

So the two screws in the rudder mount and there will also be a self tapper at the other end to secure it to the kayak.

Well that was enough bracket work for tonight, time to have a quick play with the head unit

What the dreams are made of… Hopefully images of the actual NZ sea floor soon

Will post more tomorrow after another session…

Cheers, Mental

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